How To Make Logitech G920 Brake Less Stiff

The quickest way to make your Logitech G920 brake less stiff is to open the pedal base and remove the conical rubber block inside the brake spring, this gives you a completely linear, soft pedal with zero progressive resistance. If you want a middle ground, you can swap that same rubber block for a softer aftermarket bumper or spring, which keeps some resistance but makes it far easier to modulate. Both methods are reversible, require only basic hand tools, and take about fifteen minutes.

Tools you’ll need to make your Logitech G920 brake less stiff

Before you start, gather a Phillips head screwdriver for the pedal base screws, long-nose pliers to grip and pull the rubber block out of the spring, and a small amount of silicone grease to keep the spring and pivot moving smoothly. Optionally, if you choose the replacement route, you’ll need a GTEYE spring or a custom bushing kit designed for the G920, these are drop-in parts that don’t require any cutting or drilling.

Method 1: Remove the rubber block (easiest full-soft fix)

This is the most common modification because it permanently eliminates the stiff progressive feel that many users dislike. The G920 brake pedal uses a spring with a cylindrical rubber insert inside it; that insert is what creates the increasing resistance as you press deeper. Removing it turns the brake into a smooth, consistent pedal that behaves more like the throttle.

1. Unplug the G920 from your PC or console and flip the pedal set upside down so the base plate faces you.
2. Use the Phillips screwdriver to remove the screws along the bottom edge of the pedal base. There are typically six screws holding the black plastic cover to the metal frame.
3. Lift the cover off carefully, the throttle and clutch pedals will stay in place, but the brake pedal assembly is exposed.
4. Locate the brake pedal spring. It’s the largest spring in the set, sitting vertically behind the pedal arm. Inside the coils, you’ll see a grey or black conical rubber block.
5. Grip the rubber block with the long-nose pliers and pull it straight out. It may be snug, so wiggle it gently while pulling. Do not force it, as the spring can pop out of its seat.
6. Once the block is out, apply a thin layer of silicone grease to the spring coils and the pivot point where the pedal arm meets the base.
7. Reattach the cover and tighten the screws. Plug the pedal set back in and press the brake, you’ll notice it now travels smoothly with no sudden resistance at the end of the stroke.

This method is ideal if you want the softest possible pedal for trail braking or if you find the stock stiffness causes foot fatigue during long sessions. The only downside is that you lose the realistic “push harder to stop harder” feel, so be prepared to rely on your game’s brake pressure meter or your own muscle memory.

Method 2: Swap the rubber bumper for progressive resistance

If you want a pedal that’s softer than stock but still builds resistance near the floor, replace the rubber block with a progressive spring or a softer bushing. This is the better choice for SIM racers who want more control without losing the sensation of a real brake pedal. The process is identical to Method 1 up to the point where you remove the stock block.

1. Follow steps 1 through 5 from Method 1 to open the pedal base and extract the factory rubber block.
2. Instead of leaving the spring empty, insert your replacement, either a GTEYE spring (which is designed to fit the G920’s spring housing) or a softer polyurethane bushing that you can trim to size.
3. Ensure the replacement sits centered inside the spring coils and doesn’t bind against the spring when compressed.
4. Apply silicone grease to the spring and the new bumper, then reassemble the base and tighten the screws.
5. Test the pedal. If it’s still too stiff, remove the cover again and trim the bumper slightly or switch to a lighter spring. If it’s too soft, add a thin washer under the bumper to increase preload.

This method gives you the best of both worlds: a more forgiving initial press for smooth braking, but enough resistance at the end to help you threshold brake without locking up. It’s also reversible, you can always put the stock block back if you prefer the original feel.

Testing, fine-tuning, and in-game calibration

Select the Logitech G920 and click Properties to see the live pedal axes. Press the brake fully and release it, the slider should move smoothly from 0 to 100% without any jumps or dead zones. To calibrate Logitech G920 Xbox pedals, go to the Settings tab in the Logitech G HUB software and click “Calibrate,” then follow the on-screen prompts to set the pedal range. This step is essential after any hardware change, because the pedal’s travel distance has changed even if the sensor hasn’t.

Once calibrated, launch your racing game and test the brake in a straight line first, press gently, then harder, and watch how the braking force responds. If you’re using the full-soft method, you’ll likely need to reduce the brake sensitivity in the game’s controller settings, because the pedal now reaches 100% much earlier than before. Most racing titles let you set a brake curve or deadzone; start with a linear curve and adjust from there. If you’re using the progressive spring, the stock sensitivity settings usually work fine, but you may want to lower the brake force setting if the pedal feels too touchy.

If you want to use the Logitech G920 on PC with a custom setup, remember that the wheel’s internal software saves your pedal calibration per profile. After you’ve adjusted the hardware, re-run the calibration in G HUB so the wheel remembers the new pedal travel. Test on a few different tracks with varying braking zones, long straights with heavy braking, tight corners with trail braking, and wet conditions where you need fine control. If the pedal still feels too stiff or too soft, go back into the pedal base and make small changes. For the removal method, you can add a thin rubber washer under the spring to add a tiny bit of resistance. For the replacement method, you can swap between different durometer bumpers until you find the one that feels right.

Finally, consider your racing wheel setup as a whole. If you’re using the G920 on a desk or a foldable stand, a softer brake pedal might make the wheelbase tip forward under hard braking. In that case, you might want to keep a bit more resistance in the pedal or mount the pedals to a solid surface. The goal is a pedal that feels natural to you, not one that matches someone else’s preference. Take your time, test in real race conditions, and don’t be afraid to open the pedal base again, the screws are meant to be removed and replaced multiple times.