Build a UHF VHF TV antenna with this proven design to capture both high-band UHF digital signals and lower-frequency VHF broadcasts, giving you the widest possible channel selection from free over-the-air TV.
Before you build a UHF VHF TV antenna: check your signal
Use a signal meter, either a standalone device or the one built into your TV’s channel scan menu, to measure the actual signal strength at your location before cutting any wire. This critical first step tells you whether you need a large outdoor antenna or a small attic model, and it prevents you from spending hours building the wrong design. A reliable signal meter will show you the real-world signal levels for each broadcast band in your area, so you can tailor your DIY antenna to what actually reaches your home, and once it's built, you can connect TV antenna to TV wirelessly to place it in the optimal spot without running long cables.
Understanding UHF and VHF frequencies for your DIY antenna
UHF (Ultra High Frequency) channels occupy 300 MHz to 3 GHz, carrying most digital TV broadcasts with shorter wavelengths that allow compact antenna elements. VHF (Very High Frequency) spans 30 MHz to 300 MHz, with longer wavelengths that travel farther but are more easily blocked by buildings and hills. Because broadcasters use both bands, a combination antenna with separate UHF and VHF elements is the only way to capture every available channel in your area.
Materials and tools you'll need
You must use RG6 coax, not old RG59 cable, because RG59 has higher signal loss and inferior shielding that will degrade your reception, especially on long runs from antenna to TV. Tools include a wire cutter, wire stripper, measuring tape, drill with bits, screwdriver, and a wrench for tightening mounting hardware.
Designing your antenna with a proven plan
This combination has been tested to deliver strong gain across both bands without complex tuning.
Building the antenna framework
If using wood, sand the edges and drill pilot holes at the marked element positions. For PVC, use a hacksaw to cut the pipe and drill holes through the walls for mounting bolts. Attach a mounting bracket to the center of the boom, positioning it so the antenna will sit level when mounted.
Constructing the UHF and VHF elements
Attach the four bowtie elements to the boom in two rows of two, with each bowtie’s center point 6.5 inches from the boom’s center.
Assembling and mounting the antenna for best reception
Connect the two bowtie elements in each row to a single wire lead, then join both rows to the balun’s 300-ohm terminals. Attach the VHF dipole’s stripped ends to the same balun terminals, ensuring the two dipoles are electrically isolated by 4 inches of spacing. Connect the RG6 cable to the balun’s F-connector, routing the coax along the boom and securing it with zip ties. Mount the antenna as high as possible on a roof mast or chimney bracket, keeping it at least 6 feet above the roofline and away from trees, power lines, and metal gutters. Use a level to ensure the boom is perfectly horizontal, and tighten all bolts to prevent shifting.
How to align and test your new TV antenna
Use a compass or a smartphone signal-finder app to determine the direction of your nearest broadcast tower, then rotate the antenna to face that exact bearing. After aligning, perform a channel scan on your TV and check the signal strength meter for each channel. If you’re missing channels, you may need to point a TV antenna more precisely and recheck the compass bearing, because even a 10-degree error can drop signals. If you get no channels, the common problem of my TV antenna not picking up any channels after a channel scan usually points to a loose balun connection or improper element spacing, so verify all connections and remeasure element lengths. Make small 5-degree rotations and rescan after each adjustment, noting which direction yields the highest signal quality. Once you find the sweet spot, permanently tighten the mounting bolts and enjoy your free over-the-air channels.
