Older blog entries for shimniok (starting at number 77)

Kids Like Taking Out Trash (With a Robot)

Where can you watch hundreds of kids volunteer to take out the trash? At the Denver Mini-Maker Faire, that's where!

Kids loved driving Trash Bot, grabbing, and dragging the recycling bin.

I spent most of last weekend manning the Bot Thoughts / SHARC combined booths where my remote control Trash Bot (TOTT Bot) was a huge hit with kids and adults alike! But that's not all.

This was my first Maker Faire of any sort, and it was awesome. I am interested in lots of disparate things from art to science and the Mini Maker Faire had all that and much more.

Our 3PI line followers were a big hit as well. We got a lot of questions about the line followers and a lot of interest. They are fun to watch. We probably blew through 4 packs of AAs, however.

Meanwhile
Data Bus was there with my Java Ground Control Station (GCS) displaying telemetry data: voltage, current, speed, GPS satellite count, heading, and bearing to waypoint.



I was glad to meet several prospective AVC competitors and others interested in the Bus and talk tech with them.

My Raspberry Pi Rover made an appearance on Saturday but experienced technical problems at the end of the day taking it out of commission for the rest of the Faire.

I also showed off OpenMV Cam to several people. It ran face detection reliably for both days.

Next time the Faire is in town, you should go. It's absolutely awesome.


Syndicated 2014-05-08 16:00:00 from Michael Shimniok

29 Apr 2014 (updated 8 May 2014 at 16:16 UTC) »

Denver Mini-Maker Faire


Are you in Denver? Got some time this weekend for robots?

Saturday May 3rd and Sunday May 4th 9:00am - 5:00pm

Come visit Bot Thoughts and SHARC at the Denver Mini Maker Faire at the National Western Complex Saturday or Sunday. Tickets available here.



What I'll be showing...

Exclusive peek at the OpenMV Cam!

Sparkfun AVC 2014 Course Preview

Sparkfun posted the 2014 AVC Course Preview today. Two changes. For ground, Micro/PBR classses can follow a line. For air, 36" red balloons are added. Pop them for a bonus (an OpenMV cam might be handy here -- we're planning to build a small batch of prototypes soon).


Syndicated 2014-04-17 18:36:00 (Updated 2014-04-17 18:36:36) from Michael Shimniok

My Pixy arrived in the mail!



Well, can't wait to play with my just-delivered Pixy cam! Meanwhile I hope to finish OpenMV Camera assembly soon so I can demo at Robotics At The Hangar here in Denver on April 13.


Syndicated 2014-03-28 16:48:00 (Updated 2014-03-28 16:48:57) from Michael Shimniok

25 Mar 2014 (updated 14 Apr 2014 at 15:15 UTC) »

Clock for my Mom, Complete.


Mom's clock is complete. She has trouble remembering the day of the week and has impaired vision, so after a fruitless search for an affordable solution I made my own. Here's how.


The high-visibility desktop timepiece uses 8x8 LED matrices, is powered by a phone charger, and features a hand-rubbed Maple enclosure faced with smoked acrylic for a high-contrast display. It alternately displays the time and day of week and automatically corrects for daylight savings time.

I previously covered
assembling the core electronics, all available on Tindie.com:

Microcontroller

I thought about using one of my many microcontrollers but I wanted a quicker, simpler solution so I ordered an LED Matrix Master from FriedCircuits on tindie.com, made up a cable to connect it to the LED matrix, loaded up the software I was using on the Uno, and called it done.

Power Supply

The Matrix and Real-Time Clock/Calendar were put together but I needed a power supply for permanent use. After contemplating several options, for sake of expediency I decided to use one of my eeZee Power USB modules, run a USB connector into the box, and plug the other end into a common 5V phone charger.

Building the Enclosure

The enclosure is constructed of 1/4" maple boards sourced at the local home improvement store. I picked this particular board for it's curly figure which I found appealing.

My plan, after considering mitre cuts and other options, was to use my router to notch the top and bottom edges of each side, so that I could lay a plank of the Maple into the notches at the top and bottom, glue it, and call it done.


Finishing the Enclosure

I'm far more experienced with coding and electronics than wood, particularly with finishing wood. Not surprisingly, my first attempts to build and finish a box ended poorly.

Polyurethane is notorious for its tendency to retain bubbles and collect dust and that's just what happened on a half-dozen separate attempts to add coats to the original box. I first tried using a pad which is supposed to help. Better but not great. Then I tried using a spray can of Urethane. Better still, but still not great and tended to develop sags. I worked on isolating the piece from dust. That helped. A little.



Finally I gave up, bought some tung oil, tested it, and declared Urethane the devil and vowed never to use it for anything serious again. I rebuilt the box from scratch.

I applied the tung oil with an old t-shirt rag, rubbing it in and letting it dry overnight after each coating. Between coatings I sanding progressively finer starting with 320-grit then 400-grit, and buffing with #00 steel wool in the end. The finish isn't quite as glossy or hard as I'd hoped but it leaves a nice natural look to the wood. I'm quite pleased.

Attaching Acrylic Face

The acrylic face is mounted directly to the edge of the enclosure with cyanoacrylate (CA) glue. I experimented briefly with acrylic, wood, and CA and found the bond to be suitably strong, though not impossible to break free with significant force.

I purchased a large sheet of smoked gray acrylic from eBay, so I'd have plenty of opportunities to screw up.

After carefully measuring the piece needed, leaving excess that could be sanded away for a precision fit, I used a plastic scoring tool to notch the acrylic, then bent it over a flat edge until it snapped cleanly.

I sanded down the edges of the acrylic a little at a time until it nearly matched the size of the enclosure, then finished the edges with 320-grit and 400-grit sandpapers.

Then, I scuffed the mating surface of the acrylic with 400-grit sandpaper, applied a small amount of CA on the wood to avoid squeeze out, sprayed kicker (catalyst for CA) onto the CA, and placed the acrylic.

Almost perfectly.

The face is offset horizontally by about 1/32" which will haunt me for the rest of my days. Sigh. At least the top and bottom are perfectly flush. I'll use a jig next time I do something like this.

Building and Mounting the Frame

My first attempt to build the box involved adding a permanent back. Fortunately I screwed up the finish multiple times and abandoned that box for one with no front or back. This enabled me to permanently install the acrylic face and then, from the rear, slide in a frame holding the clock's guts.


I started by mounting the LED matrices to a piece of Poplar cut to fit inside the enclosure. I used the Eagle files to print out drill locations for the mounting holes. Actually attaching the bolts and nuts was rather tedious but I finally got it. I fixed the metal nuts with CA once they were tight.

Why not use four screws per matrix? I'm low on screws and didn't want to delay the project any longer. It's solid enough. Don't worry about it.


After thinking about and mocking up several options, I built a frame using craft dowels at the top and 3/4" square poplar dowels at the bottom. When I build things like this I think about it then I try stuff and make it up as I go. The point is that it works brilliantly even if I arrived at this solution rather erratically.


I made a second piece of poplar the same size as the first, then clamped them together and drilled two holes in the upper corners large enough to fit 3/8" craft dowels. I slid the two poplar pieces onto the dowels, inserted the frame into the enclosure, pushed the rear face in until it was just below flush, and then used CA glue to fix everything in place.

Then I discovered the dowel was sticking out in front. Crap. I should've glued that first. I used a hacksaw to trim the protruding dowels down. Next I cut two 3/4" square dowels down and sanded until they were the same size as the gap at the top of the frame. I glued these in place with wood glue using clamps.

Could I have screwed these in place from both sides? That'd work too and it would've been possible to reach the LED Matrix screws... which I can't currently do without a hacksaw. Drat. Oh well.

Finally I added the remaining electronics to the frame. The LED Matrix Master is attached to one of the frame posts with some screws I found. The real time clock and power supply are hanging loose for now. There's a notch at the rear bottom of the frame to allow the USB cable to fit through.


Finally I marked two spots on the bottom of the enclosure, drilled and countersunk holes for screws to fasten the frame to the enclosure. I slide the frame in, marked the spots for the screws, drilled pilot holes, then fastened everything together. It's tight. It's solid. It looks pretty darned good.

Daylight Savings Time

I'm from Arizona where we don't do this silly daylight savings time thing and I'm still getting used to it 20 years later up here in Colorado.

I kind of forgot about DST and the clock/calendar module doesn't account for it. I decided to code up automatic daylight savings time detection. I didn't spend much time on it so I'm sure there's a more elegant solution but it was a fun puzzle. I mocked it up in Python (partially to hone my Python craft):